How to Get into
Tibet ?
All foreign visitors to Tibet need one or more permits. The basic one
is the Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit, which can be issued to you by
Chinese travel agencies that handle trips to Tibet, or (if overseas and
arriving via Nepal) by the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu on proof of
purchasing a package tour (there is no way around this). If you buy an
expensive package tour, the TTB permit will only cost you US$6, but if you
just want train/plane tickets, the travel agency will inflate their cut
accordingly and you'll need to fork out up to US$50-70. For land crossings
(including the train), you'll get a physical permit that will be checked;
for plane tickets, the permit may just be an annotation on your ticket
record.
Some parts of Tibet also require an Aliens' Travel Permit (ATP), which is
issued by the Public Security Bureau (PSB) in major Tibetan cities like
Lhasa, Xigatse and Ali. The list of regions that require ATPs changes
constantly, so enquire locally. Lhasa's PSB has a poor reputation, while
Xigatse and Ali are said to issue permits without any unnecessary
difficulties. If your papers are in order, the permit can be issued in
several hours for Y100.
Finally, some remote areas also require a military permit. These are only
available in Lhasa, where processing takes several days, and are only
granted for an appropriate reason.
By Plane
You can fly to Lhasa and also Nyingchi but flying in from a much lower
altitude city puts you at high risk of altitude sickness because of the
quick transition. If you are in Sichuan or nearby (and aren't satisfied
visiting the many ethnically Tibetan areas to the east of the Tibetan
Autonomous Region) flying from Chengdu is the easiest option.
According to signs (posted in train stations among other places) to go to
Tibet after June 26th you need a great deal of official paperwork. Hostels
in Chengdu can handle that paperwork for a very reasonable fee. Just show
up at a large hostel and ask to book a flight to Lhasa, they'll handle the
rest (cost 2000 RMB).
By Train
The Qinghai-Tibet (Qingzang) Railway from Golmud to Lhasa started
operating in July 2006. The journey all the way from Beijing takes just
under 48 hours, costing 389 yuan in the cheapest hard seat class and 1262
yuan for a soft sleeper. Direct trains to Lhasa originate in Beijing,
Xining, Lanzhou, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chongqing and Chengdu.
Here is a link to a Timetable and Ticket Prices for Trains to Tibet [1]
for reference.
By Road
There are four roads into Tibet, roughly corresponding to the cardinal
directions:
North: The road from Golmud (Ch:Ge'ermu) is the easiest legal land route
at present. The landscape is beautiful but difficult to appreciate after
the long rough ride.
It's possible to travel this way by hitch-hiking on trucks if you are well
prepared (camping equipment, food and water for a day). Expect to spend a
few days. There are police checkpoints on the way but the only one that is
a problem is the one 30 km or so out of Golmud. If you walk around it and
a few km beyond you should be able to get a ride without too much of a
problem. There are plenty of places to eat on the way but be prepared to
get stuck in the middle of nowhere. There are also are places to sleep
ranging from truck stop brothels to comfortable hotels, however these
should be avoided as you're likely to get picked up by the police.
East: There is no legal way to travel this road (except as part of an
expensive organised tour; see Overland to Tibet) and the security is
tighter than from the north. Travellers do get through this way, but for
people who are obviously not northeast Asians it's difficult.
West: From Kashgar (Ch:Kashi) much of the way is technically off limits.
However there is a steady stream of hardy travelers coming this way,
usually hitching rides on trucks. The road is totally unpaved for over a
thousand kilometers with villages and water few and far between. The main
advantages of this way is that it passes by Mount Kailash and through a
beautiful, very remote region inhabited by nomads. You should be very well
prepared to travel this way and take everything you would need for
independent trekking: camping equipment suitable for freezing temperatures
even in summer, a good tent and at least a few days of food (there are a
few truck-stop places on the way but not always when you want them).
Expect the trip to take two weeks or more. From Kashgar it's much farther
to go to Lhasa via Urumqi and Golmud but the better transport (trains and
good paved highways) make it no more time consuming to travel this way.
There are many interesting things for the tourist to see on the way and it
is worth considering traveling this way instead of via Mount Kailash.
South: From Nepal the international border makes any sort of breaking of
the rules impossible, so the only option is to book a tour with a travel
agent in Kathmandu. In addition, as of 2007, you need a group visa for
China itself to cross the border into Tibet, so don't bother applying
before you get to Kathmandu. The drive from Kathmandu to Lhasa takes five
days and is very rough, but pretty.
Southeast: After 44 years of closure, the Nathu La pass to Sikkim, India —
a part of the historic Silk Road — opened again in July 2006. At time of
writing, the border is not yet open to foreign tourists, but this is
expected to change some time in the future and there are plans for a
Gangtok-Lhasa bus service.
http://wikitravel.org/en/Tibet
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